You take the cable car from Villars to reach the tiny township of Bretaye. I went on Thursday 17 August. It’s surrounded by abrupt hills and has two lakes. Beyond the ‘cow zone’ is a seemingly endless natural playground, like from a children’s book.

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The herds of cows were like an alpine orchestra of bells. The sound tinkled up to me like a dream as I picked my way down the mountain and rang out their harmonics clearly when up close. This is what they sounded like…

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